What are the basics of applying eyeshadow?

Do you find yourself wishing you could apply the perfect eyeshadow look? Perhaps you find single shadow application a breeze but struggle with layered techniques? Or maybe you want to brush up on your eye makeup artistry skills generally. If any of this rings true, then this guide on how to apply eyeshadow like a pro is for you. 

It’s common to get into a bit of a rut with your makeup, falling back on failsafe styles you don’t love, or feeling too uninspired or time-pressed to try something new. 

Before You Apply Eyeshadow

Getting back to basics on how to apply eyeshadow and understanding some of the key effects you can create will help you master a myriad of different looks to suit all occasions and vibes.

From easy eyeshadow looks to more advanced techniques, our Global Education Ambassador & Artistry Lead Janeena Rumsey shares her pro eyeshadow tips.

 

 

What’s the Difference Between Cream or Powder Eyeshadow?

OK, so this may sound like a basic question, but it’s actually super important to know the difference in your textures between cream and powder eyeshadow when deciding the effects to go for. 

Applying Cream Eyeshadow

Initially when applied, cream eyeshadows tend to look a bit more dramatic but the further you blend, the more they melt into skin. Cream shadows layer beautifully and looks can range from a soft, watercolored effect to dramatic and painterly lids. They also work great under powdered shadows to intensify the pigment. I personally love using the heat from my fingers to blend and ensure each shade melts seamlessly into skin. 

Applying Powder Eyeshadow

Powder eyeshadow tends to sit on the surface of the skin. Depending on the blending technique and tool used, powder formulas are more “seen” on the skin. Most common eye makeup brushes used for powder shadow application are flat or paddle shaped for lid and base application, fluffy and dome-shaped for lightweight shaping and overall blurring/blending, or small and dense for liner or detail work and added depth.  

 

 

Priming Before You Apply Eyeshadow

Priming is an often overlooked step when it comes to applying eyeshadow. But, if you're looking to create a vibrant eye statement that lasts and remains looking fresh throughout the day, priming is actually key. After all, eyeshadow primer is not only meant to create smudge and budge-proof staying power but also decreases the chance of color creasing, preventing fallout and intensifying pigment.  

There are various priming techniques and formulas to choose from. Some even prefer a simple cream-based concealer but my advice is to keep it simple and don't overthink it. Pick an eyeshadow primer that’s lightweight, silky, glides onto lids evenly so anything applied on top will look seamless.

 

 

How To Apply Eyeshadow Step By Step

Step 1: Applying Eyeshadow Primer

On clean lids, lightly apply a small amount of eyeshadow primer from your lash line to brow bone using clean fingertips or a lightweight blending brush. Allow a moment for it to set before applying the eyeshadow. Remember that a little goes a long way, so if you’re using a liquid or cream based primer, the size of a grain of rice should be enough for the entire lid. Simply pat and blend until the priming formula melts into your skin.

Step 2: Applying Single Color Eyeshadow

Single color eyeshadow placement can be modern, expressive, fun, and extremely easy. This is a great eye makeup technique when you’re wanting to make a true color statement. Single color application can also be a simple base shade to even out skin tone and brighten the eye space. Base eyeshadow color palettes are usually a shade very close to your skin tone or a few shades darker. It’s most often applied from lash line to eyelid crease.

Decide whether you're going to go with a dark eyeshadow or a light eyeshadow. Lighter shades brighten and enhance the eye space, while deeper shades add depth and definition. Matte eyeshadow formulas are the foundation of eye makeup application as they add natural dimension. Shimmer shades are most often used as an accent.

For a more statement single eyeshadow, choose a vibrant cream or powder that pops on your skin tone and apply from lash line to crease. Soften any harsh edges through your crease and outer eye line with your favorite blending brush, fusing pigment into the skin. If you're really wanting to make a statement, use a single eyeshadow shade to create a bold graphic eye. Blend your shade of choice through the crease and lash line allowing for negative space on the lower lid. 

 

 

Step 3: Applying Eyeshadow Transition and Crease Effects

 

One of the most important colors to use in an eyeshadow application is the transition shade. This is normally a neutral, matte shade—often a taupe, soft peach, caramel, or brown, used in between the crease color and brow bone in order to create shape and a gradient between colors. Using a transition or blending shade helps other colors meld more seamlessly into one another.

After a primer or a base shade is applied, apply a transition shade using a lightweight fluffy brush that fits snug into your eye socket, for seamless blending. Transition shades can also be applied to soften a dark crease shade and in this case, would be applied after a crease color to blur harsh edges.  

To add depth and to accentuate your eye shape even more, use a crease shade. This is going to be your deepest shadow color and is most often applied into the eye socket. The denser the brush you use, the deeper the shading. For a more defined crease choose a smaller brush with a shorter and more compact brush head. For softer definition, choose a brush with longer bristles and a good amount of bend and flex to it.

 

 

Step 4: Applying Eyeshadow Effects

Smokey, ombre, cut crease, or just soft and natural, there are endless techniques to create multi-colored effects on the eyes. Just be sure to choose a color scheme that includes a matte, a mid-toned earthy-neutral eyeshadow color for blending, a lighter shade that can be used for base or highlighting and helps open up the eye space, along with a deeper shade for added depth and shape. Our Eyeshadow Quads feature all four shades you’ll need to create a seamless look, or for even more variety, try one of our eyeshadow palettes.

And, don't be afraid to mix up texture, layering powders over creams and vice versa or working with different finishes such as mattes, metallics, and shimmers. This can elevate any eye look adding natural dimension. At a bare minimum, have one dense and one fluffy brush on hand for precise placement and blending. Start with a small amount of product, layer, then blend until the effect you want is achieved. It's always easier to add than take away, especially with an eye makeup look.

 

 

How To Apply Eyeshadow on Hooded Eyes

A question we get asked a lot at Glo is how to apply eye makeup on hooded eyes.  Hooded eyes are a type of eye shape where the eyelid crease is either partially or completely concealed when the eye is open. That's why it can be a little more challenging to apply eyeshadow if you haven't learnt a few techniques. "We like to enhance hooded eyes by creating the illusion of a more defined crease and larger lid space," explains Janeena. 

Apply a matte transition shade above the crease to visually lift and open the eye. Then build in darker eyeshadow shades on the outer corner and blend these above the crease to create depth and definition. Try a lighter or shimmery shade on the lid to brighten the eye. You can also add eyeliner to define the lash line and create a winged effect which also gives a widened eye look. Don't forget mascara too to build and sculpt lashes. 

How To Apply Eyeshadow on Mature Skin

If you have concerns around fine lines and wrinkles or looser skin around the eye area, you'll want to make sure you're prepping the eye area carefully with a nourishing eye cream. Always start your eye makeup look with an eye primer to smooth the area and set the perfect base to keep the eyeshadow in place. Go for eyeshadows with a creamy texture that won't settle into fine lines. Play with the eyeshadow effects and colors that best suit you.

 

 

Practice does make perfect too, so find your inspiration, plan out your look, and try having a few goes to apply your eyeshadow to create your perfect effects before the big event. And, if you want to take things up a level, try mastering the perfect smokey eye makeup.

This is my step-by-step guide for getting perfect eyeshadow every time. If you’ve ever had your makeup professional done for photos or for a wedding, you might have been wondering how the makeup artist did your eyeshadow so perfectly.

When I was a makeup artist, the #1 thing I heard from clients was that eyeshadow felt like the most confusing part of doing their own makeup, it never seemed to come out “right.” I want this tutorial to demystify this area of makeup and give you the tools to recreate a professional makeup exactly as the professionals do eyeshadow.

Initially, I know it might seem like a lot of steps, but most are tiny little tweaks that end up making a big difference. At the end of the video, I do one side of my eyeshadow in real time, so that you can see how fast it actually goes.

There are such a variety of eye shapes and this technique is surprisingly universal, but feel free to use it as a loose guide and tweak as needed for your eye shape. The video goes in to detail on tips for hooded and downturned eyes.

How To Apply + Blend Eyeshadow

My motto for eyeshadow is: “least (amount) applied, soonest blended.”

TIP | I like to build up in light layers, instead of getting a lot of shadow on each brush at once.

Step 1 |  Eye Cream

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

So many times people tell me they have heard they don’t need a separate eye cream and to just use their same face moisturizer. I promise you, once you find the right eye cream, it’s a game changer.

The right eye cream helps eyeshadow look smooth and never dusty.

TECHNIQUE: I apply the majority of my eye cream (a pea size amount for each eye) under my eyes first, then, I dab whatever is left on my ring fingers over my lids. This application method helps me get some hydration on my lids, without overwhelming the base for my eyeshadow.

shop eye cream | DHC coQ10 at dermstore . amazon

Step 2 | Primer + Powder

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

Much like eye cream, primer can seem unnecessary, but the right one will help eyeshadows apply more vibrantly. You’ll actually end up using less eyeshadow, because you won’t have to keep adding layers for it to show up.

After I apply eye primer, I lightly dust either translucent powder over my entire lid. This will help eyeshadows apply smoothly, without the color skipping across the skin.

In the photo, you can see how the section with primer has way more pigment, and the sections that don’t are lighter and will take more eyeshadow to build up to the same level of color.

shop | powder brush . elf blending brush . translucent powder . eye primer

Step 3 | Transition Shade

This step uses: fluffy crease brush, pencil brush, + transition eyeshadow shade

If you are looking for a great set of eyeshadow brushes (instead of purchasing individuals), I highly recommend this set, 8 of some of the softest eye brushes I have ever used.

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

This step is called the transition shade because it’s the makeup color that transitions your eye makeup into the rest of your skin.

I prefer a more natural look, so I use a shade that is only one shade deeper than my skin tone. For me, MAC “Wedge” is the perfect transition shade.

I have a smaller lid shape and my eyes are downturned and slightly hooded at the outside corner.

Based on my eye shape, I take my crease shade just above my actual crease and apply it up and out at the outer corner, above the actual crease. I never bring my crease shade past the edge of my eyebrow.

I prefer to apply with a windshield wiper (back-and-forth) motion and then when all the shadow is applied, I take the same brush and start to do swirling motions to really diffuse the shadow for a perfect blend.

TIP | To create the perfect eyeshadow shape on your upper lid, hold a pencil brush under the bottom lashes at the outside edge of your eye, directing the brush up towards the tail end of your eye brow.

shop MAC Wedge | MAC . MAC at nordstrom . BK Beauty 201 fluffy crease brush . Morphe x Ariel eye set . Sigma e30 pencil brush

Step 4 | Outer Corner

This step uses: pencil brush + transition eyeshadow shade

Using the same pencil brush and transition shade, hold the brush at your lower lash line, going toward the end of your eyebrow.

Now “mark” this shape by placing your eyeshadow down. This will help create the perfect lifted “V” shape with the transition shade at the crease.

Using that same pencil brush, grab a bit more of the transition shade eye shadow. Place it at the tip of the “V” shape we just created and draw the brush in, towards your lid and down, towards your lash line.

This helps create the perfect eyeshadow base shape and frames your eye for the lid shade.

If you need to deepen the outer corner even more, repeat this step with a deeper shade. I find it easier to start with lighter shades and then build up to the intensity I want by adding darker shades as needed.

shop Angled brush | BK Beauty #205 Contoured Shader Brush

Step 5 | Under Eye

This step uses: pencil brush + transition eyeshadow shade

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

This step is really personal based on your eye shape and desired makeup look. I love the look of a bit of eyeshadow at the lower lash line on myself.

Bringing the same shadow shade from your crease under your eye can give you a soft smoldering look and/or bigger looking eyes. However, on some eye shapes, this can drag down the shape of your eye, so just experiment to see if it enhances the eyeshadow look for you.

I switch to a pencil brush and use the same eyeshadow shade we just used in the crease. I bring it as close to my lash line as possible, starting in the middle of the lower lashes, applying in short dash strokes (instead of one long line, which can tug and skip).

shop Pencil Brush | sigma E30 pencil brush . amazon

Step 6 | Deepen Crease

This step uses: precision crease brush + eyeshadow shade deeper than transition shade

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

Using a slightly warmer and deeper eyeshadow shade than we just used (for me, MAC “Saddle”) and a more narrow crease brush, I add a shadow into my crease, lower than the first transition shade, from the center of my lid in towards my nose.

Deeper shades help recede areas. By placing a deeper shade in the crease, it brings the crease farther back and can make your lid space look larger and more defined.

I use a more narrow crease brush here so that the eye shadow is diffused, but also stays in the area I am placing it.

shop MAC Saddle | MAC (free shipping) . MAC nordstrom . sigmaE45 brush . nordstrom

Step 7 | Lid

This step uses: lid brush + any eyeshadow shade

Now that the basic shape of our eyeshadow look is laid down, it really gets fun! You can use any shade you want over the lid.

Lighter shades across the lid will brighten and make your lid look larger, mid tone shades will create a smoldering look. I tend to go for a bronze shimmer, but a light matte peach is also nice when I want a “clean” look.

Starting at the center of my eye, at the base of my lashes, I press shadow into my lid and up to the crease. I blend it out to the outer part of my iris, then in towards the inner corner of my eye.

shop Lid Brushes | surratt lid brush (incredible quality) . BK Beauty #203 (cream + liquid shadows) . morphe M210

shop My Favorite Lid Eyeshadows | MAC official Orb refill pan . MAC Orb (light peach) . CT Oyster Pearl w/free ship (my go-to!) . Colourpop Wattles

Step 8 | Eye Liner

This step uses: eye liner, smudge brush, + deeper eyeshadow shade

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

I love this step because it really thickens the look of my lashes!

TIP | It’s really important to sharpen your pencil before every use, this will help you get a more precise line and get in closest to your lashes.

I apply liner as close as I can to my lash line, then set it with an eyeliner in the same shade. As a former makeup artist, I cam honestly say this technique looks good on everyone.

The aim of eye liner is to get it as close to the lash line as possible, to fill in any gaps and make the lashes look fuller. I use short dash strokes, instead of trying to apply in one long line.

Because I have downturned eyes, I will flick my liner up at the outer edge of my eye, starting the upward flick where my eye begins to go downward. On the lower lash line, I only place liner on the center of my lower lash line, to give definition, without making the lower lash line look “heavy.”

To wedge the liner even more in between my lashes, I will take a narrow smudge brush and a deeper taupe eyeshadow and press shadow over that liner. This softens the look of liner and also sets the liner for all-day wear.

shop Liner Products | Ilia official (shade Just) . Ilia at sephora . smudge brush . smudge brush from set

Step 9 | Hooded Eye Lift

This step is for anyone who has hooded or partially hooded eyes.

TIP: If you have hooded or downturned eyes like me, I like to go over where my eye creases at the outside edge and “erase” that crease. This helps me create an upturned almond eye shape.

Looking forward, with my eye still creased, I’ll tap some darker taupe shadow over the crease, with the bristles of my brush pointing out and up (towards my eye brow). Then, I’ll tilt back and start to blend it in towards my crease and lid.

It feels really strange the first time you apply shadow this way, but applying it with my eye still creased has been the best way for me to get perfect lifted placement. Start with one light tap of shadow and build the intensity.

Once all the shadow is placed, I blend the edges with an angled brush to really define that “V” shape and blend all the shades together.

shop Angled brush | BK Beauty #205 Contoured Shader Brush

Step 10 | Sparkle (optional)

This step uses: glitter eyeshadow shade + ring finger

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

For an extra “pop” grab an eyeshadow with a glitter finish in the same shade or lighter than your lid shade.

Using your ring or pinky finger, tap lightly once on the glitter shadow, then place a small amount on the center of your lid. If you are looking forward in the mirror, this would be directly over your pupil.

Sometimes I add the slightest amount under my eyes, also in the center only, right under my pupil.

This glitter can make your eyes sparkle. Applied sparingly, most of the time the glitter is not even visible until you are up very close. The key is to use the smallest amount of glitter.

shop Colourpop Amaze Glitter shade | colourpop . ulta beauty

Step 11 | Inner Corner (optional)

This step uses a champagne satin finish eyeshadow and narrow brush.

The just the very inner most corner of your eye, pop a tiny amount of champagne colored eyeshadow, with a satin finish. Blend thoroughly.

This little extra step can really brighten your eyes and the overall look of your makeup!

shop | stila kitten . pointed brush (part of set) . ulta beauty

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

Step 12 | Brow Lift

To lift the look of your eyes and brow, draw a thin line with either a cream (my preference) or a powder one shade lighter than your skin tone and then blend. This is one of those small, easy tricks that makes a nice difference.

Step 13 | Setting Spray

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

This is my “secret” step for crease-free eye shadow that lasts all day. It also helps prevent mascara from smudging.

After your eyeshadow is finished, but before applying mascara, grab your setting spray and spray over your eyes. Make sure to keep your eyes gently closed while the setting spray dries down, so that the shadow has a smooth finish.

I always notice a huge improvement in my eyeshadow and mascara longevity when I do this step! I’m able to make my eyeshadow last 12+ hours.

shop setting spray | skindinavia . amazon . sephora

Turn on your JavaScript to view content

Let me know how this tutorial works for you! It amazed me how much faster my eyeshadow application goes now after getting these techniques and placement down. Also, I feel so much happier with my results!

PIN NOW | READ LATER

Watch How To Apply + Blend Eyeshadow

SHOP THE POST