Rubber hoses are essential pieces of equipment for many industrial and commercial applications. There are many different types of rubber hoses, each with their own unique benefits and features. In this comprehensive guide, we will answer some of the most common questions about rubber hoses. We’ll cover everything from what rubber hoses are used for to how to select the right hose for your needs. So whether you’re just starting out and you need to learn more about rubber hoses, or you’re an experienced professional looking for a refresher course, read on!
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In this guide:
FAQs about Rubber Hoses:
The first thing to know about rubber hoses is that there are two main types: industrial and domestic. Industrial hoses are intended for use in heavy-duty applications such as factories, construction sites, and other environments where they will be subject to high levels of wear and tear. Domestic rubber hoses, on the other hand, are designed for use in the home and other less demanding applications.
Now that you know the difference between industrial and domestic rubber hoses, let’s take a closer look at each type.
As we mentioned, industrial rubber hoses are designed for heavy-duty applications. They are often made of thicker, more durable materials than domestic hoses. This means that they can withstand more wear and tear and last longer in demanding environments. Industrial rubber hoses are also typically wider in diameter than domestic hoses, which allows for greater flow rates.
Some common examples of industrial rubber hoses include:
As we mentioned, domestic rubber hoses are designed for use in the home and other less demanding applications. They are often made of thinner, less durable materials than industrial hoses. This means that they will not last as long in demanding environments but they are typically cheaper than industrial hoses. Domestic rubber hoses are also typically smaller in diameter than industrial hoses, which limits the flow rate.
Some common examples of domestic rubber hoses include:
Rubber hoses are made of three main components: the tube, the reinforcement, and the cover. The tube is the innermost component and it is typically made of synthetic rubber or thermoplastic rubber. The reinforcement is the middle layer and it is typically made of one or more layers of textile cord or steel wire. The cover is the outermost layer and it is typically made of synthetic rubber, thermoplastic rubber, or polyurethane.
The three components are then joined together using a process called vulcanization. Vulcanization is a process where the rubber is exposed to heat and chemicals in order to improve its strength and durability. After vulcanization, the rubber hose is then ready to be used.
The type of rubber hose you need will depend on the application you are using it for. Different rubber hoses are made of different materials, which means they have different strengths and weaknesses.
Some common rubber hose materials include:
When selecting a rubber hose, you need to consider the following:
If you’re not 100% sure about your specifications for each of these requirements, it’s best to speak to a hose expert like those at All Hose and Valves – with decades of industry experience, they can guide you in the right hose type for your application.
You also need to consider what type of rubber hose you need. There are three main types of rubber hoses:
Picking the right rubber hose is important because it will ensure that the hose can withstand the conditions it will be used in.
If you pick a rubber hose that is not suited for the application, it could fail and cause serious damage.
Rubber hose nozzle: A rubber hose nozzle is a device that is attached to the end of a rubber hose. It is used to control the flow of liquids or gases from the rubber hose.
Rubber hose coupling: A rubber hose coupling, or connector, is a device that is used to connect two pieces of rubber hose together.
Rubber hose clamps: Rubber hose clamps are devices that are used to secure rubber hoses to other objects.
Rubber hose washers: Rubber hose washers are devices that are used to create a watertight seal between two pieces of rubber hose.
Rubber hose end cap: As the name indicates, an end cap is a device that is used to seal the end of a rubber hose.
Rubber hose Fittings: hose fittings, also known as gaskets, are devices that are used to connect rubber hoses to other objects, including other hoses.
Multipurpose Oil Resistant Hose: This rubber hose is perfect for handling petroleum-based oils. It is also resistant to abrasion, so it can withstand being dragged across the ground.
Bulk Material Handling Hose: This rubber hose is perfect for handling bulk materials, such as sand, gravel, and cement.
Dredge Sleeve Hose: This rubber hose is perfect for dredging operations. It has a smooth bore and is abrasion-resistant.
Washdown Hose: This rubber hose is perfect for high-pressure washdown applications.
Chemical Transfer Hose: This rubber hose is perfect for transferring chemicals from one place to another.
Air & Water Hose: commonly used in industrial applications to transfer air or water from one machine to another, cleaning equipment with high-pressure water, and pumping fluids in a manufacturing process.
Fuel Line/Vapor Emission Hose: Vapor emission hoses are rubber hoses that are used to handle fuel and vapour. They can be used in a variety of applications, including agricultural irrigation and construction.
Layflat hoses: Layflat hoses are rubber hoses that are designed to be very flexible. They can be bent into a variety of shapes and are perfect for applications where a traditional rubber hose would not work. The most common use cases for layflat hoses include agricultural irrigation, mining and construction/engineering applications.
Automotive hoses: Automotive hoses are rubber hoses that are used in automotive applications. They can be used for a variety of purposes, including carrying fluids, ventilation, and exhaust.
Fire hoses: Fire hoses are rubber hoses that are used by firefighters to carry water from the fire truck to the fire. Fire hoses are rubber hoses that are specifically designed to handle high pressure and high temperatures. They typically have a very high pressure rating and a high temperature rating. They are also abrasion-resistant, so they can withstand being dragged across the ground.
Flood cleanup hoses: Flood cleanup hoses are rubber hoses that are used to remove water from an area that has been flooded. They typically have a very high capacity and can handle a large amount of water.
Pneumatic/Hydraulic Hoses: Pneumatic hoses are rubber hoses that are used to carry air. Hydraulic hoses are rubber hoses that are used to carry fluids. Both types of hoses are used in a variety of applications, including automotive, industrial, and construction.
When you think of hoses around the house, you probably think about:
They’re called “flexible” hoses for a reason! 🙂
Cars have rubber hoses for:
Hoses are also commonly used in marine vehicles, caravans and RV applications for plumbing, drinking water, exhaust, and sanitation.
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You’ve probably got hose pipes in more places than you realise. They’re always working hard behind the scenes (and walls) to keep things moving – as a rule of thumb, if you don’t know the hose is there, that means it’s doing a good job!
Although rubber isn’t the only material used for drainage pipes, it’s not uncommon either. Rubber hose pipes for waste water drainage can appear in a number of places:
Rubber hoses should be inspected on a regular basis and replaced as needed. rubber hoses have a limited lifespan and will eventually need to be replaced.When disposing of rubber hoses, it is important to follow the proper protocols to ensure that they are disposed of safely and correctly. Rubber hoses can be recycled, but they must first
Rubber hoses are susceptible to a number of common defects, especially as they age. These include:
It is important to inspect rubber hoses regularly for these defects and replace them as needed.
If a rubber hose has a hole or puncture, it can be repaired using a rubber patch or silicone repair tape. To do this, cut a piece of rubber that is slightly larger than the hole or puncture. Clean the surface of the rubber hose around the hole or puncture and apply a thin layer of rubber cement to the surface. Place the rubber patch over the hole or puncture and press it into place. Apply another thin layer of rubber cement or similar high-grade adhesive to the surface of the rubber patch. Allow the rubber cement to dry for 24 hours before using the hose.
There are a few factors to consider when deciding whether to repair or replace a rubber hose:
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In most cases, it is best to replace a rubber hose that is damaged. This is because rubber hoses have a limited lifespan and will eventually need to be replaced. rubber hoses are also susceptible to a number of common defects, which can make them more difficult to repair.
Rubber hoses should be stored in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. Rubber hoses can be damaged by heat, cold, and UV rays, so it is important to store them properly. Rubber hoses should also be stored away from sharp objects that could puncture or cut them.
When not in use, rubber hoses should be stored in a hose reel or similar storage device. This will help to keep them organized and protected from damage.
Rubber hoses can be cleaned using a variety of methods, depending on the type of rubber hose and the amount of dirt and grime. For light cleaning, rubber hoses can be wiped down with a damp cloth or sponge. For more difficult cleaning jobs, rubber hoses can be cleaned using a pressure washer or power washer. In some cases, rubber hoses can also be cleaned using a solvent-based cleaner.
It is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when cleaning rubber hoses. This will ensure that the rubber hose is not damaged during the cleaning process.
Cleaning rubber hoses is an important part of maintaining them. Hoses should be cleaned on a regular basis to remove dirt, grime, and other debris.
Rubber hoses have a limited lifespan and will eventually need to be replaced. rubber hoses are susceptible to a number of common defects, which can make them more difficult to repair. In most cases, it is best to replace a rubber hose that is damaged.
The lifespan of a rubber hose depends on a number of factors, including:
In general, rubber hoses should be replaced every three to five years. However, this can vary depending on the factors listed above. It is important to inspect rubber hoses regularly for signs of wear and tear. Hoses that are damaged or showing signs of wear and tear should be replaced as soon as possible.
No. You should never put your old hoses into your recycling bin. They are one of the worst items for people at the recycling plant to deal with as they get tangled with other recyclables and can be a nightmare to extract and remove, as well as having the potential to cause machine breakdowns and become a safety issue for workers.
To dispose of your old rubber hose, you should put it into your general waste bin – for the same reason as listed above, it is a good idea to first cut the hose into smaller segments to prevent it from getting tangled during transport to landfill.
Important note: If your hose has been used to carry toxic or corrosive materials you should take extra care when handling and disposing of the hose as it may pose a health risk to you and others. When in doubt follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Sadly, all good things must come to an end (yes, even this article) – here are a few signs that it is time to replace your rubber hose:
If you notice any of the above signs, it’s time to replace your rubber hose.
No. Rubber hoses are not safe to drink from. rubber hoses are made of materials that can leach chemicals into water, which can be harmful to your health.
No. Rubber hoses are not designed for use with fuel. Fuel can damage rubber hoses and cause them to leak.
No. Rubber hoses are not designed for use with oil. Oil can damage rubber hoses and cause them to leak.
No. Rubber hoses do not contain BPA. BPA is a chemical that is found in some plastics. rubber hoses are made of rubber, which does not contain BPA.
PVC hoses are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is a type of plastic. rubber hoses are made of rubber. Rubber is a natural material that is made from the sap of rubber trees. PVC is a synthetic material that is made from chemicals.
There is no definitive answer to this question. It depends on your needs and preferences. Vynil hoses are more flexible than rubber hoses, but less durable. PVC hoses are less likely to kink than rubber hoses, but they are also more brittle and can rupture if subjected to too much pressure. Understanding your use case is the most crucial step in any hose purchase so you can get the right type – for efficiency, longevity and safety.
All Hose and Valves is South-East Queensland’s leading supplier of hoses of all types, as well as fittings, valves, clamps and numerous other accessories tailored for industrial, commercial and automotive applications. With store locations in Caboolture, Brisbane and the Gold Coast, and an experienced team of hose enthusiasts ready to take your call, there’s never been a better time (or place) to buy your next rubber hose! Visit us in-store, browse our website or give us a call today.
(Sorry, couldn’t resist the pun…)
Rubber hoses are one of the most versatile and widely used products in the world. There are countless types of rubber hoses, each with their own unique uses and benefits.
We hope you found this rubber hose resource helpful and informative. If you have any questions that we didn’t cover, feel free to leave a comment below and we’ll do our best to get back to you ASAP.
And remember, when in doubt – always consult the manufacturer’s instructions! Stay safe out there rubber hosers! Keep it reel! (Okay, last one, we promise…)
There are no REQUIRED exhaust sizes for Cummins marine engines; there are RECOMMENDED minimum sizes that may or may not meet the required exhaust restriction requirements published by Cummins. Those two statements above are also applicable to most marine engine recommendations / requirements. The sizes that are recommended are based on past experience and are merely a guide in the selection process for designing a safe and non-restrictive exhaust system.
For all of the Cummins marine engines that are in current production, the maximum restriction at rated output is 3″ Hg (about 1½ psi) and I believe this is close to most of the competitive manufactured turbo-charged engines in this 100-1000 hp range.
In most exhaust systems that are in the type of boats discussed in these forums (150-650 HP,) there are TWO distinct parts of the exhaust system/ piping. The DRY part and the WET part. Even on the factory “wet elbows” supplied by all of the manufacturers that I’ve seen, these two sections exist, though many people don’t realize it.. The inner pipe of this “wet elbow” is actually a 90-degree dry bend, or section, surrounded by raw water to keep the surface cool. At the end of this “wet” elbow, where the exhaust hose attaches, is where the water is introduced (hence the term “mixing elbow”) and the exhaust NOW becomes wet. Inside this elbow is a smaller diameter (typically around 2 ½ – 5″ ID) which is the dry side, and where the hose attaches, it expands to (or is surrounded by) 4-8″ tubing/OD piping, depending on the engine size, etc..
When using custom exhaust risers, or most factory supplied wet elbows, the fabricators of these systems employ various techniques to design and build these parts. Some of the designs follow good engineering practices with “thought out” design failure scenarios should the system NOT last the life of the boat. But, MANY do not. In practical thinking about marine exhaust systems, never consider your exhaust riser or wet elbow to be “lifetime.” But, in real life, when most marine exhaust systems fail, (wet type), they lead to contingency damage of various engine parts as the designer DID NOT figure in a failure scenario that would (will) occur from internal corrosion/leaking. This is usually due to the fact that when the “wet side” fails (the failure is often in close proximity to where the salt water is first introduced to the exhaust riser/elbow,) this water ends up in the engine when the owner least suspects it. Internal failure of “wet elbows” and custom water jacketed risers is an old and ongoing problem, regardless of material choice, and/or other claimed construction features.
When building custom wet exhaust systems, these are but a few are of “common sense” guidelines to follow in their design that will help eliminate these types of failures/contingency damages:
A typical high performance marine diesel of around 300 HP will pump about 50-70 GPM of salt water through the engine cooling circuit at rated RPM (not necessarily rated HP.) This large amount of water is needed to keep the engine cool and provide for some reserve, but all of this water (excess water) is NOT necessary to inject into the exhaust system to cool the exhaust gases and quiet the exhaust level.. Although most engine installations do indeed inject all of this water, as it “came from the factory that way,” this is not required or necessarily desirable in many installations and repowers.
It cools the exhaust to levels that are safe (140 deg. F or less) allowing the use of hoses, fiberglass tubing and mufflers, and adds considerably to the quieting and scrubbing process. But it also adds considerably to the restriction of the exhaust system..
Although I’ve talked to “people in the know” that claim the opposite (the exhaust are gases cooled and therefore have less volume,) just believe me that when water is added to 900+++ degree exhaust and steam is produced, that the volume of the mixture of hot gas and water vapor is substantially higher, and therefore needs a much larger exhaust diameter after this mix takes place. This, along with the addition of the water itself and its own frictional resistance and volume within the piping, all add to back pressure and require larger piping than the dry side.. A simple way to see this is by looking at exhaust diameters of typical 300 HP diesels in trucks and comparing them to the typical sizes of a 300 HP marine diesel wet exhaust system.
Now, back to that excess water, and how can we use this water that is needed for the engine cooling but not necessarily needed for the exhaust cooling. First we need to understand how much “excess” there is and then how we use it to our advantage.. Just from testing and building wet and dry exhaust systems for about 20 years in boats, I’ve learned that you need to inject between ¾ and 1½ GPM of water flow per 10 HP into most any properly designed mixing elbow/wet exhaust system to allow for more than adequate cooling and silencing of the system.. By putting a simple “T” in the hose after the heat exchanger that goes between it and the mixing elbow, and then allowing the proper amount of water to flow out the side or back of the boat freely, one can reduce back pressure by a measurable margin, and now, in many cases, use smaller than recommended sizes of exhaust hose and/ or components and still meet restriction requirements.
From direct experience, I’ve used 5″ wet on 450 C’s and 4½” wet on 330 Diamonds and still was able to be well under restriction limits at rated HP and RPM. In quite a few of the repowers I run into, we are going from a gas motor w/ around 3 ½ or 4″ exhaust size, and the recommended size for the new diesel may be 6″.. This can be a tough one in many instances (space and cost limitations) and with some clever engineering, I’ve always been able to use 5″, or even less in some cases.. There are many factors involved in this selection of smaller sizes, and only with experience to draw from, can all of needed design features be put together in a way that will insure a safe, but non-restrictive exhaust system. As to having to use 8″ exhaust on the Cummins 450C (mentioned in a post on the Volvo 70’s forum last week); only in an exhaust system with a design that gave little thought about all of the options which could be used to lower restriction, would an 8″ exhaust size be needed. Never have I had to use an 8″ exhaust on this engine to meet restriction requirements.
Please don’t take the above to mean that I don’t use 5″, 6″ or even 8″ systems. I’m only trying to help with some of the repowers that come up where the recommended exhaust sizes DON’T fit the constraints of the boat or maybe the pocket book. It takes very careful planning to reduce from the recommended sizes but this alternative is there, if the design is right. There are many other tricks to reducing restriction in wet exhaust systems and these may include coring a hole through the first input baffle inside a typical inline muffler, enlarging spigot sizes on both the input and the output of an existing 4″ or 5″ muffler to the next larger size, etc. etc. etc. Again, these all come from past experience and field trials along with some good solid engineering.
And, as one added feature with bypassing some water out the side of the boat, you will get a easy “visual” of this water flow, and on boats w/ swim steps and stern exhaust, seeing this water flow can add a feeling of comfort knowing that you are pumping lots of seawater.
The pics below show some designs that have accomplished the features mentioned above and were made to “fit the boat”, the requirements of the applicable engine manufacturer, and used “common sense” as a component of the design.
The pics below show some designs that have accomplished the features mentioned above and were made to “fit the boat”, the requirements of the applicable engine manufacturer, and used “common sense” as a component of the design.
Starboard Riser for Bertram 31
Shower Type Exhaust Riser
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